Мастер-класс по сухому валянию игрушки. Котенок Усик

 последнее время сухое валяние стало необычайно популярным. И это совсем не удивительно. Ведь при помощи этой техники можно делать поистине волшебные вещи: милые игрушки, необычные украшения и даже одежду.

Сухое валяние иногда также называют фильцеванием. Это слово немецкого происхождения, и образовано оно из двух слов: filz –войлок, nadel – игла. Суть техники заключается в спутывании волокон шерсти и ее уплотнении.

Предлагаем Вашему вниманию замечательный мастер-класс посухому валянию игрушки от Светланы Клюшевой. Автор рассказывает о том, как сделать котенка из шерсти своими руками.

	Нам понадобятся: шерсть для валяния белая и чуть розовой; синтепон; иглы для валяния № 36 и № 40 + обратная игла; глазки; шило; клей (момент универсальный); ножницы; пуходерка (необязательно); а также: леска, белая акриловая краска, лента (нет на фото).
	Валяние туловища и головы котенка: Скручиваем из синтепона плотные валик и шар. С помощью иглы № 36 уплотняем и придаем правильную форму головы и туловища. Они станут основой нашего котенка.
	Намечаем глазницы многократным втыканием иглы. Размер глазницы чуть больше диаметра глазика.
	Белую шерсть нарываем пуходеркой или руками небольшими кусочками и перемешиваем волокна – делаем облачко (это ускорит сваливание).
	Приваливаем облачко шерсти к шару иглой № 40 (тонкой).
	Намечаем глазницы и углубляем их.
	Шилом прокалываем отверстия в середине глазниц, расширяем и углубляем ножницами. Примеряем глазки, если легли ровно и плотно – приклеиваем.

Делаем небольшое облачко шерсти и уплотняем тонкой иглой середину с двух сторон. Края не сваливаем. Затем сворачиваем пополам и сваливаем край сгиба с двух сторон и с торца.

Получилось веко. Несваляный край – это юбочка. Этой юбочкой мы приваливаем веки сверху и снизу глаза. Всего 4 века. Верхние чуть больше нижних и больше нависают над глазом.

Иглой № 36 (грубой) намечаем линию носа, щечек, рта. Приваливаем маленький пучок розовой шерсти к носику, в виде треугольника, намечаем ноздри. Добавляем объем на щечки.

Так же как веко, делаем ротик и приваливаем на место. Облачко шерсти свернем в треугольник и уплотняем с двух сторон и в середине. Одну сторону оставим юбочкой – это ухо. В середину ушка приваливаем небольшой пучок розовой шерсти. Разделим юбочку вдоль уха на две части – одной частью приваливаем ушко к голове спереди – второй сзади.

Берем синтепоновый валик (туловище) и обваливаем шерстью, оставляя с одной стороны юбочку. Приваливаем туловище к голове с помощью юбочки, плотно придерживая детали.

Далее отделяем от гребеной ленты четыре одинаковых куска шерсти на лапки. Каждый кусок превращаем в облачко. Из каждого облачка сваливаем колбаску. Сваливаем лапку, оставляя юбочку с одной стороны и утолщая другую сторону (там будут пальчики). Передние лапки прямые, а задние загибаем в процессе уваливания, как на фото. Из небольшого кусочка шерсти сваливаем хвостик, оставляя юбочку.

Начинаем приваливать лапки к туловищу. Присоединив лапки, добавим дополнительный объем в верхней части лапок.

Таким же образом приваливаем задние лапки и наращиваем объем в верхней части.

Приваливаем хвостик. Теперь все детали на месте. Но это еще не все!

Теперь котенка надо оживить. Сначала сделаем ему пушистую шерстку. Для этого проработаем всю поверхность обратной иглой.Она вытаскивает небольшие пучки шерсти наружу, создавая эффект пушистости. Затем уберем лишнюю лохматость, слегка пройдясь тонкой иглой, как бы причесывая котенка.

Добавим котенку усики. Берем леску или мононить. Вставляем в длинную иглу в одну нитку. Делаем узелок, отступив от края 4-5 см. На узелок капаем клей и вводим в одну щечку, вытаскивая из другой. Узелок с клеем застрянет внутри и зафиксирует усики. Так проделать 4-5 раз. Затем усики можно покрасить - провести между двумя испачканными красками пальцами.

Теперь затонируем шерсть пастелью. Накрошить мелко мелки и кистью провести вокруг глаз, носика, ротика и между пальчиков (цвет бежевый).

Повяжем бантик, и наш котенок Усик готов!

Всем удачи!

Baa Baa Black Sheep

Baa Baa Black Sheep

 ON FEBRUARY 25 |  IN SEWING TUTORIALS + PATTERNS |  BY BETH |  WITH 7 COMMENTS

Abby Glassenberg of While She Naps and Abby Glassenberg Design was here earlier this month with her informative post about how to turn your love of sewing into a pattern business, and we also recently featured her Baby Butterfly tutorial here at Sew Mama Sew. Today she shows you how to make a darling Baa Baa Black Sheep, the perfect little softie for, well, just about anyone!… Aren’t they adorable?!

Abby has a new Start an Online Sewing Pattern Business eBook out, and lots of fun softie patterns at Abby Glassenberg Design. She’s the author of two comprehensive and popular books, Stuffed Animals: From Concept to Construction and The Artful Bird: Feathered Friends To Make and Sew. Find more from Abby atWhile She Naps and on Facebook, and have lots of fun with Abby’s latest design here today!

“Baa baa black sheep, have you any wool?” Bring the classic nursery rhyme song to life with this adorable, and easy to sew, softie. Children will love to hold and play with their very own baa baa black sheep (or white sheep!). You can complete this project in about an hour. A fun birthday or shower gift!

A finished sheep is 12 inches from head to tail and 8 inches tall.

To make a sheep you’ll need:

• 1/4 yard of gray fleece
• 1/4 yard of black faux fur
• Baa Baa Black Sheep Templates (Update: A kind reader reformatted the PDF templates for A4 paper size!)
• Black embroidery floss or Perle cotton, 18 inches
• Fiberfill stuffing, 6 ounces
• Coordinating thread

Tools:

• Disappearing fabric marker or chalk
• Embroidery needle

Notes:

• Fleece is stretchy and faux fur has nap. It’s important to place the pattern pieces on the fabric with the arrows parallel to the selvedge.
• A 1/4 inch seam allowance has been added to all pattern pieces. Cut on the solid lines and stitch on the dotted lines.
• For increased accuracy and tight seams that can withstand stuffing use a short stitch length when sewing softies.

Cut Everything Out
Download and print the Baa Baa Black Sheep Templates. (Update: If you prefer an A4 paper size a kind reader reformatted Abby’s PDF templates just for you.)

From gray fleece cut:
– 2 Ears
– 8 Legs
– 2 Faces
– 2 Tails

From black fur cut:
– 2 Bodies
– 2 Ears

Transfer all of the markings to the fabric with a disappearing fabric marker or chalk. Cut the leg slits in both body pieces.

Make the Legs
Place two leg pieces right sides together. Stitch around, leaving the straight edge at the top open. Repeat three more times so that you have four legs. Clip the curves and turn the legs right side out. Stuff the foot area firmly on each leg, leaving the rest of the leg unstuffed.

Make the Tail
Place the tail pieces right sides together. Stitch around, leaving the straight edge at the top open. Clip the curves and turn the tail right side out.

Make the Ears
Place one fleece ear and one fur ear right sides together. Stitch around the sides of the ear, leaving the bottom open. Clip the curves and turn the ear right side out. Fold in half along the fold line and pin to hold. Repeat to make a second ear.

Attach the Face to the Body
Place one folded ear on the right side of one face with the fold of the ear toward the top of the face. Baste in place. Repeat for the other ear and face piece.

Put one face piece on top of the coordinating body piece, right sides together, aligning points A and B. Pin well along this curve. Stitch the face to the body from point A to point B, catching the raw edges of the ear in the seam. Remove the basting stitches from the ear.

Repeat to attach the other face to the other body piece.

Attach the Legs and Tail
Place the tail on the right side of one body piece, matching up points C and D. Note that the tip of the tail is pointing downward. Baste in place.

From the right side of one body piece slide a leg through one of the leg slits so that the raw edges of the leg align with the edged of the slit. Fold the body down over the slit and pin the leg in place. Stitch across the slit, closing it up and catching the leg in the seam. Repeat for the other leg, than repeat twice more attaching the other two legs to the other body piece.

Embroider the Face
Thread an embroidery needle with black Perle cotton or 3-strands from a length of black embroidery floss. Tie a knot in the end. Bring the needle up from the back of one face and embroider the eyes, nose, and mouth with chain stitch. Finish the embroidery at the back and tie a double knot to secure. Repeat on the other face piece.

Sew the Body Together
Place the two assembled body pieces right sides together and pin well. Place pins where the face meets the body to be sure that the seams match up exactly. Stitch around the body, leaving the opening as marked. Clip the curves, especially at the neck, and turn the sheep right side out. Stuff firmly. Close the opening with ladder stitch.

Give your sheep a big hug!

For more fun softie patterns, plus tips for running your own creative business, visit my blog While She Naps.

Spring Bunny Tutorial

Spring Bunny Tutorial

 ON MARCH 19 |  IN SEWING TUTORIALS + PATTERNS |  BY BETH |  WITH 20 COMMENTS

Lorraine (or LiEr) from ikat bag has shared a steady stream of innovative and fun toys, clothes, costumes and more over the years. You can now supplement her extensive archive of free patterns with more involved PDF designs that you can purchase. It’s so easy to spend a lot of time on Lorraine’s site… Justlook at the parties! Look at the extensive list of tutorials! Lorraine has also joined us here at Sew Mama Sew with her Back to School Pencil Case and the more recent Cloverleaf Bag.

Today Lorraine shares her Spring Bunny tutorial, just in time for some special Easter sewing. You could even pair a bunny with a Scalloped Edge Basket, Fun + Frayed Basket, Toy Gathering Bucket or The Art Tote! Welcome spring with this happy little bunny…

Hello, everyone! Bunnies are a big thing in our house because Kate, our 6-year-old, is besotted with them.

Last year for her birthday she asked for a “puffy” bunny, where “puffy” animals– she explained eventually– were those that sat upright on their bottoms, like teddy bears. These were opposed to “flat” animals which, according to Kate, sprawl on their bellies with all four limbs splayed out like bearskin rugs. One year later, I decided to revisit the idea of “flat bunnies” after we all fell in love with this book:

Adults, I’ve learned, will happily make a stuffed animal, lovingly gift it to a child and call it a day.

Children, on the other hand, will take that lovie, and their imagination, and run wild with it. And, often, they keep running.

What followed was a litter of baby bunnies, multicolored and multi-fabric-ed.

And, at the behest of Kate and her sisters, food.

And beds. And clothes. And travel bags. And a cardboard bunny house.

Stay here on Sew Mama Sew to learn to make your own bunnies. Then come over to ikat bag tomorrow for the full story, and more tutorials for the carrots, bed, house, clothes and totes. Also visit this post for tips and tools for making stuffed animals and dolls.

Step 1
The Bunny Templates do not include seam allowances to facilitate easier enlargement or reduction, should you desire bunnies of different sizes. Cut out the Bunny Template pieces and add 1/4” SA (seam allowance) all around each piece with the exception of the tail, which doesn’t require additional SA.

Lay out and cut out the required pieces of fabric using the templates. Plush fabrics with a bit of give tend to produce better results. Recommended fabrics include micro fleece, stretch terry, velour, fleece, minky and knits which are not overly stretchy. I have also used thin corduroy and terry cloth with good results.

When cutting out the head pieces, mark the center front and center back edges to distinguish them from the side edges as they are very similar in curvature.

Step 2
Begin making the head. Place the right side (RS) of the Head Front pieces together, and sew along the center front edges.

Place the RS of the Head Back pieces together and, beginning at the top of the head, sew only about 3/4” of the seam leaving the remaining lower portion open.

Step 3
Open up the Head Front and hand-embroider the facial details. Set aside.

Step 4
Make one ear. Place the RS of one Ear piece and one Ear Lining piece together, aligning their left edges (red arrow). The Lining is deliberately cut narrower than the Ear, so that when sewn together, the outer ear will wrap around the edges of the lining.

Begin stitching, as shown (the presser foot has been removed for better visibility)…

…Pausing when you reach the tip of the Lining.

Then turn the fabric, and to gently stretch the Ear Lining so that its right edge aligns with that of the Ear (red arrow).

Continue stitching to complete the ear.

When completed, the Ear fabric will bulge slightly, while the Lining fabric stays flat and taut.

Step 5
Pink the seam allowance.

Turn RS out (note how the Ear now frames the Lining).

Then fold as shown in preparation for attachment to the head.

Step 6
Repeat Step 5 with the other Ear and Ear Lining pieces to make the second ear. End of Part 2.

Step 7
Attach the ends of the ears to the top of the Head Front, as shown. The folded edge of the ears are towards the center front seam of the Head Front…

…So that when attached, the ensemble will look like this:

Step 8
Attach the Head Front to the Head Back, RS together, lining up their edges and matching up the center front and center back seams. Notice that the lower half of the center back seam is still open (red arrows).

Sew all around the head. Set aside.

Step 9
Place the RS of the Side Body pieces together, and sew from point A to point B (blue arrows).

Step 10
Spread the Side Body pieces over the Belly piece, RS touching, matching up the four limbs. Sew all around the outline of the Belly, from point C at the neck all the way around to the other point C.

Step 11
Attach the completed head to the completed body. Lay both on your work surface as shown. Lift the head and place it on the body, matching up points E and D. The RS of the head will be touching the RS of the body. The side seams of the head will not align with the side seams of the body but the center front of the bunny’s head will match up with point D on the body’s neck, and the center back will align with the center back of the body. The center back seam of the head is still half-open, as is the front portion of the body’s back seam.

Sew all around the neck to attach the head to the body. Sew from point E all the way around the front of the neck to the other point E.

Pop the head back up. Sew shut the center back seam of the head, extending about 1/2” past the neck into the body. Leave the rest of the body’s back seam open for turning out and stuffing. Snip and notch all the concave and concave SAs, respectively, including those around the neck and shoulders.

This allows them to lie flat when the animal is turned RS out.

Step 12
Make the tail by sewing running stitches 1/4” from the edge of the Tail circle, then gathering the fabric around a little stuffing.

Secure the opening by stitching it shut. Do not cut off the thread; you will continuing to sew the tail onto the bunny.

Step 13
Draw a 5/8” circle on the back of the bunny where the tail should go. Also draw a matching 5/8” circle on the gathered portion of the tail. These circles are optional, but they help position the tail centrally while stitching.

Ladder-stitch the tail onto the bunny.

The ladder stitch will be invisible when the thread is pulled tight.

Step 14
Stuff the bunny. A combination of polyfill stuffing and poly pellets (can be bought in craft stores) gives a stable, beanie-baby-like outcome. I used about a half cup of poly pellets per bunny. First fill the back legs and lower half of the body completely with pellets, then with stuffing to keep the pellets in place. Next fill the front legs with pellets, and then stuffing to keep the pellets in place. Continue stuffing the rest of the head and chest of the bunny to the desired firmness.

I use a contraption made with a wide straw and a paper funnel. More details can be found in this blog post. That helps channel the pellets directly into small spaces without spilling.

Ladder-stitch the back opening shut.

The bunny is completed! Head over to ikat bag tomorrow for the tutorials for the carrots, bed and other accessories.